Making Plans...

The image above is part of a drawdown of a design I call "Azteca," which refers to the indigenous people who founded the Aztec empire as well as to their culture. They flourished in central Mexico from 1300 to 1521 C.E., founding their capitol, Tenochtitlan, on the site that is now Mexico City. To me, the warm, vivid colors and the geometric motifs have the feeling of Aztec art. 

Architectural model, Mezcala, 1st-8th century, Metropolitan Museum of Art

(Public domain)

Coronation stone of Moctezuma, Xocoyotzin, 1503, Art Institute of Chicago

I'm thinking of weaving this pattern to create a tunic that derives from the art of the traditional Azteca women's tunic known as a huipil (pronounced wee-PEEL), worn by indigenous women from central Mexico to Central America. The garment's history predates Spanish colonization, with designs and weaving traditions pass down through the centuries. These designs represent a complex tradition of communication, with weaving and embroidery symbolizing the wearer's ethnic community and identity. Traditionally, huipils were woven in cotton on backstrap looms, such as the one seen below.

As for my plans for this modern-day huipil: I aim to weave it in 16/2 cotton and rayon/bamboo on my 32-shaft Louet Megado, with a width in the reed of 24.75 inches. I figure this gives me plenty of width to weave a rectangular shape that can be folded in half to fit an average-sized woman. Further, I want to decorate it with an inkle-woven band or two, maybe adding beads, giving it a look similar to the images below -- which are, by the way, from the wardrobe of Frida Kahlo.

In fact, I found a "Frida Huipil" sewing pattern on the website of the Victoria and Albert Museum. Here's the link: Frida Huipil V&A.

The design is a 4-color parallel threading, based on a design line that is basically Ms and Ws.

The tieup makes it a Jin pattern, and the treadling is an advancing point twill (with tabby shots in between the pattern shots, in keeping with Jin).

I would like to make this more of a garment for show rather than an everyday piece, so I may embellish it with beads and -- get this, real gold thread! (It's actually gold-plated, I guess you'd say, not solid gold, because that would be unaffordable.)

There is so much that weaving has to say, non-verbally but beautifully, to celebrate other cultures, traditions, and beliefs. Textiles awaken us to our connections and our individuality as well.

Now, off to the warping reel!

Thanks for reading.

The Huipil de la Malinche, one of the oldest huipils 

ever found, carbon-dated to the 1700s.

Creating an Optical Illusion in Block Double Weave

 Perhaps it's because our brains just want to see patterns -- but do you see expanding circles in this drawdown?

But it's all squares, right? What's going on?

This is known as a "fiction illusion," in which the brain perceives a shape or figure that is not actually present in the image. Optical illusions involve different ways in which the brain and the eye process visual information, such that the perception is different from the reality. 

Why does this happen? Quoting from my Google search: "Your brain uses patterns, past experiences, and context to make sense of visual input, but illusions exploit these processes by presenting confusing or conflicting information, causing the brain to 'fill in the gaps' in a way that leads to a perception that doesn't match reality." 

Aha! Confusing or conflicting information, differences between perception and reality -- this is where weaving can createsome interesting patterns!

Our immediate perception of this black-and-white version of the pattern above: It's full of flowing lines that intersect, dilate, and compress.

But, in the weaving pattern, it's all black-and-white rectangles, increasing and decreasing in length and width. In weaver-speak, it's just double-weave blocks.

I'm in the process of dressing my loom with this design, which is simple block double weave on 8 shafts. Here's the threading:

Two blocks, that's it. But, if you look at the top of the threading, you'll see that the units of 1, 2, 3, and 4 descend from 9 to 8 to 7, etc., in number, all the way down to 3 -- and then they begin to expand again. This means that the widths of the two different warp blocks get progressively smaller, and then they reverse and get larger again.

The treadling is "tromp as writ," meaning that it's identical to the threading. ("Treadle as written" is my rough translation.)

Looking at the weft, you'll see the same progressive increases and decreases in the number of units per block -- from 9 units in the first block to 8 in the second to 7 in the third and so on down to 3, where the number of units begins to increase again. This means that the height of the blocks changes, getting progressively longer and then progressively shorter.

The beauty of double weave is you get solid colors: In the case of my drawdown at the top of this post, green weaves with green, in alternating blocks that are either on the top layer or the bottom layer. And red is doing the reverse. Double weave makes for bold colors and graphic patterns, which is probably why weavers like it so much.

Here's the tieup. It's a double-weave tieup, so that the first 4 shafts on the first treadle lift just shaft 3, while the second 4 shafts weave the bottom layer, which is being woven upside down. This means that, effectively, shaft 7, which is technically down, is the only shaft lifted on the upside-down bottom layer. Then, on treadle 2, the layers exchange, so that shaft 8 is lifting the warp on the top layer while shaft 2 is "lifted" on the upside-down bottom layer. You're exchanging the top layer and the bottom layer to form differing rectangles. And effectively you're weaving plain weave on both layers. (Caveat: I don't consider myself a double-weave expert, so I simply created a tieup that works for me.)

The structure itself gives you two layers of cloth that exchange (top to bottom) in the pattern we talked about, squares that 

increase and decrease in height and width. In my case, I'm threading everything in beige -- but one layer is 20/2 wool and 

the other layer is 17/2 nm silk noil. Using differential-shrinkage techniques (where the wool fulls and draws in 

and the silk noil buckles and puckers because it's being drawn in by the wool), I hope to end up with a fabric that has a 

really interesting texture. But I haven't finished threading yet ;o) because I had to re-thread to get the pattern just right....

(Please note that yes, this is an unusual double-weave tieup. A friend pointed this out and, to be honest, 

I created it because that's how I puzzled it out. I hope to fix the tieup in the next few days....)

And my loom's acting up, but that's another story. Fingers crossed. 

Thanks for reading!

  

Name Drafts Aren't Just for Overshot....

 

Above is a name draft using -- why not? -- the name Michelangelo, employing an Echo threading and a twill tieup and treading. A name draft is a fun and fairly easy way to design a weaving pattern, working with the name of a friend or loved one or, in the case of Michelangelo, an icon, as a sort of coded message in your weaving. You can achieve this either by hand using graph paper or using weaving software.

(A bit of self-promotion here: I will be teaching a one-day workshop on this subject, called "Name Drafts, 8 Shafts, and Parallel Threadings," at Convergence 2026 at the Sheraton New Orleans in New Orleans, LA, next August 12-16. Registration will begin soon, but the schedule hasn't come out yet, so keep checking back on the link above for updated information. The subject of this post is NOT how to create name drafts with Echo threadings because I wouldn't want to give away the gist of the workshop. However, if you keep reading, I will walk you step-by-step in creating a name draft using deflected-double-weave techniques.)

As for name drafting itself, let's define our terms. We'll start with an impeccable source, Madelyn van der Hoogt, who wrote in Handwoven magazine on January 22, 2018, "A name draft is an arbitrary way to create a threading draft (usually threading, though it can be used for blocks or for treadling orders, too). There are many ways to do name drafting, but one is to assign a letter to each shaft: A = 1, B = 2, C = 3, D = 4, E = 1, F = 2, etc., for four shafts, for example. Then you just thread the number corresponding to the letters from words or phrases. Naturally, this doesn't necessarily give you a threading that can be used, so then you adjust. Most often name drafting is used for overshot."

But not just for overshot, as you can see from my Echo example above. As Marg Coe points out in the introduction to her online course, "What's in a NameDraft?", "Traveling outside name-drafting with traditional overshot we will design shadow weave, deflected double weave, double weave, rep, Corris effects...." All these designs are possible using name-draft techniques.

Sneak preview: In the upcoming issue of Handwoven magazine, I have used a name draft to create a deflected-double-weave design based on the name of my beloved grandfather, George Relyea. (I won't give away any more of the story, which is the "Yarn Lab" project in the next issue -- and it brings some exciting news! 'Nuf said.)

Here's how George Relyea weaves up in deflected double weave on 8 shafts. I really like the design!

So how do you do this? I work with Fiberworks (the Mac version, which varies slightly from the PC version, but these instructions should get you there on either system).

Step 1) Pick a name. (Please note that some names do work better than others, so, as Madelyn writes, you have to make adjustments.)

Step 2) In the "Tools" drop-down menu, (found at the top right side of the drawdown page as you begin), click on "Namedraft" and then type the name in the box provided. No spaces, no initial caps. The name-draft window gives you all sorts of choices, but for the purposes of this tutorial, just leave it as is. (You can experiment to your heart's content after you've learned the basics.)

Step 3) Click on "Accept" (making sure you have one color in the warp and another in the weft), and there you have it! An overshot-looking design (more like turned overshot, but anyway) that's built on the name you chose. 

Here's what the beginning of my name draft looks like on my computer screen.

Step 4) On the "Tools" menu, click on "Block Substitution." Then click on "Classic Weaves," and  "Overshot, Multishaft." Then click "Accept." My draft now looks like this.

Step 5) Using the shaft-shuffling tool at the top of the Fiberworks window (the one that has a single arrow pointing both up and down with a horizontal line going through it), use the cursor to change shaft 3 to become 5 and shaft 4 (which is now on shaft 3) to become shaft 6. This means that your threading blocks always alternate between shafts 1 or 2 and shafts 3 or 4. This is based on the Stubenitsky method of drafting deflected double weave.

Step 6) On the "Tieup" dropdown menu, click on "Shafts and Treadles," change the number of treadles to 8, and then click "Set."

Step 7) Again on the "Treadling" drop-down menu, click on "Weave as drawn in," making sure that you unclick the box for "colors." Then click "Copy Exactly as Drawn." 

Step 8) At this point, your draft will look like a mess, but that's because you need to change the tieup to a deflected-double-weave tieup. These tieups are always boxes of 2 shafts and 2 treadles that are either 1) all black, meaning two adjacent shafts will be lifted together twice in the treadling, 2) all white, meaning that two adjacent shafts will stay down together twice in the treadling, or 3) weaving plain weave.

My tieup looks like this: (Note: To repeat, I'm following the Stubenitsky method in the tieup, in which -- for an 8-shaft draft -- the four shafts and treadles on the bottom left and the four shafts and treadles on the top right are tied up to weave plain weave, while the four shafts and treadles on the top left and the four shafts and treadles on the bottom right weave the pattern, comprising four-unit squares of two shafts and two treadles which are either all black to lift the warp or all white to lower the warp. The plain-weave portions of the tieup are always stationary, while the blocks of 4 black or 4 white can be moved about to alter the pattern.) Here's what my tieup looks like.

Step 9) To see your design as deflected double weave, you need to change the warp colors so that every other block of four warp ends is one color and the adjacent blocks are another color.  And you need once again to click on the "Treadling" dropdown menu, click on "Weave as drawn in," and click on "Copy Exactly as Drawn" so that the colors in your weft alternate block by block as well.

And this is what you get with my name draft.

Not bad for an hour's work, don't you think? And this technique allows you to encode something special, unique, and meaningful to you. Again, if you're interested in learning the full spectrum of possibilities for name drafting, I urge you to check out Marg Coe's free, live course (click here).

Thanks for reading!

My "George Relyea" name draft again, this time with a different tieup.

Build Your Fiber Skills -- and Friendships -- at EGLFC this October in Upstate New York!

 

Come join us this October 10-13 at beautiful St. Bonaventure University in Olean, NY, for a weekend of fiber learning and sharing.

For more information, see below. To register, visit https://eglfc.org/eglfc-registration-stub/

Registration has been extended through July 31st for two workshops that still have room:

"Ultimate Spinning" with Cindy Koedoot Knisely

Cindy, pictured above, is an admitted fiberholic. She has been playing with fiber-y things since early childhood when she made clothes for her Barbie dolls. She crochets and knits, sews, quilts, and weaves baskets, but her favorite pastimes are spinning and weaving. She is never happier than when she has fiber of some sort in her hands. She loves sharing her addiction with others. For more information, visit www.redstoneglen.com

During the workshop, we'll take an in-depth look at your spinning wool: short, medium, and long staples and how to set up your wheel for each of these. Then we'll advance to other protein fibers, camelids, mohair, and silk, among others. After that, we'll switch to plan fibers -- including cotton, linen, and hemp. We'll work on combining fibers to get the most out of each fiber. What works best? We'll look at prepping fiber with hand cards, wool combs, and drum carders -- and we'll even try a blending board. 

You'll learn how to adjust your wheel for the fiber and the yarn you want. Also, we'll spend time on fiber prep, spinning long draw and short draw, blending fibers, spinning woolen and worsted-spun yarns, and plying and finishing yarns. And we won't forget to play along the way, color blending, art yarn, glitz.... We'll try anything and everything!

Level of experience required: Intermediate 

• Equipment requirements: 
• Spinning wheel in good working condition 
• As many bobbins as you have for the wheel 
• Spinning oil, threading hook, Niddy Noddy, and the usual spinning tools 
• Notebook and pen for taking notes 
• A sense of adventure: Imagine all the possibilities! 
• If you have them: wool cards, wool combs, drum carder, any fibers you'd like to share 

Materials fee: $40

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"Weaving 101 -- Mission Possible: Try Weaving and Complete a Scarf or Two" with Jan Hewitt Towsley

Of her work, Jan Towsley (pictured above) says, "I love to weave. I love to explore all kinds of weaving and fiber-art techniques that bring it all together. Starting with those little pot-holder looms I used as a child, I was intrigued with the creation of fabric using patterns, textures, and color. I earned my BFA in Weaving and Textile Design at the School for American Craftsmen at RIT (Rochester Institute of Technology) and I continue to weave utilitarian and art pieces in my studio. I am honored to have my work at such locations as RIT, Strong Memorial Hospital, Lipson Cancer Center, and the Susan B. Anthony House. Further, I teach in area schools and at the Weaving and Fiber Arts Center in East Rochester, NY. For more information, visit Jan Hewitt Towsley at Anderson Alley Artists 

Information on Jan's workshop: Accomplish two new goals! Participants will learn the basics of loom weaving: How does that yarn get onto a loom? And how does it become fabric? Also in this class, you'll complete one scarf and have enough warp left to weave another scarf at home. This is a chance for students to bring a loom and receive instructions and help with setting it up. A questionnaire will be sent to the students to customize each person's projects. Students will select from a variety of cotton-warp yarn colors prior to class, so that the instructor can prepare customized warps. Students may also bring their own weaving yarns.

Don't have a loom? Many local guilds offer equipment rentals and the instructor has some table looms available to rent during the workshop. The instructor will contact you to find out about your loom availability and warp-color choice.

Level of experience: Beginners and up

Materials fee: $30 for pre-wound warps and weaving yarns

Warning: This class may lead to a desire for more weaving projects and classes!

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EGLFC (Eastern Great Lakes Fiber Conference) is a popular biennial weaving conference held in western New York State. Its small size and intimate setting provide excellent opportunities to hone your skills and make fiber friends from other regional guilds, including those from New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, and Ontario, Canada. The weekend also includes:

• Friday evening Meet & Greet slide presentations by our instructors, once you've arrived and/or had dinner at a local restaurant.
• Saturday afternoon Classroom Walkabout to see what others are doing in their workshops; time to relax with others at your hotel or take a walk around campus. 
• Saturday evening Studio Bonanza fundraiser to unload your no-longer-needed equipment, books and stash. The fun is contagious as we drop tickets into baskets next to our hoped-for prize. Will you be a winner?
• Sunday night Banquet and Fashion Show. Don’t be shy! It’s a low-key time for participants of all levels to show off wearables (from scarves to full garments) on our “runway” following dinner.
• All weekend Exhibit Tables feature work from volunteer participants – let’s see what you’ve been working on!

Fall foliage, fiber, and friends -- all together for one great weekend at EGLFC. Hope to see you there!

Aerial view of St. Bonaventure University, Olean, NY

A Tale of Three Looms

 

They're all dressed up (well, almost) but not ready to go! Pictured above: At top, my 16-shaft Toika Eeva, threaded for a differential-shrinkage pattern in double weave; in the middle, my 16-shaft Germaine table loom threaded with gossamer-weight silk still in the gum (which I wrote about at length in my previous post); and on the bottom, my 32-shaft Louet Megado only partially threaded (I have to thread the second back beam) for an 8-shaft differential-shrinkage pattern.

So why are they all sitting idle? Well, as you know, weaving is hard because there's lots of preparation. And sometimes you don't even know how much preparation it takes until you're in the thick of dressing your loom. (And sometimes you change your mind -- halfway through dressing your loom -- about which pattern you're going to weave. Does anyone else do this?)

Some details about what's on these three looms...

On the Toika compu-dobby (first photo), I have an 8-shaft double-weave pattern threaded and ready to weave. The only problem is that two shafts were rising when they shouldn't, so I couldn't get the proper sheds for my design. I sent a quick email to Claudia Spaulding (thanks, Claudia!), who is CFO of the Hartford Artisans Weaving Center and happens to be a Toika rep -- and also happens to be a physician. I thought the problem was humidity but her diagnosis was that the posts inside the box on top of the loom had to be adjusted. She also cc'd Bran Gardner in on her reply, the weaving manager for Webs and the chief U.S. support for Toika. Bran has put together very detailed instructions on how to adjust the posts so that the magnets assigned to each shaft are connecting properly.... My electrical-engineering in-house consultant (and husband) did the rest. He's a weaving angel, really.

The pattern uses two layers -- one layer being a yarn that is active and one being a yarn that is inactive. (The red layer is on top and the black layer is on the bottom, while the long black rectangles represent where the two layers weave together in a tied double weave.) After fulling, the active yarn draws in and causes the inactive yarn to buckle, with the tied double weave giving the fabric some stability. Here is the drawdown.

It's threaded as a double-two-tie-unit weave, which can be tied up and treadled to create a range of designs, including double weave. I learned the technique in a workshop I took with Ann Richards in London in 2014, based on her book, Weaving Textiles That Shape Themselves. The two warps are 18/2 superfine merino from Jaggerspun (no longer in business but still available from Jane Stafford Textiles) and 20/2 Mora yarn (which, unlike the 18/2 merino, doesn't full), a Swedish yarn available from Vävstuga. 

The two wefts are 20/2 Mora (in red, below) and a black wool overtwisted yarn, 52/2 nm Z-twist, from the Handweavers Studio and Gallery in London, an excellent source for energized yarns.

Here's an idea of how the design should look after finishing -- although the sample in this photo differs somewhat, using 30/2 silk and 52/2 nm Z-twist wool in both warp and weft.

So, for all intents and purposes, the Toika is dressed and ready to weave!

On to the Germaine: ah, the Germaine. It's a Purrington copy, really. And this particular iteration was pretty badly made. I'm just saying it straight. But the latest generation of Purrington Looms is very well made, back up to the traditional Purrington standards, by the Bannerman family in West Virginia. I bought the Germaine because it has 16 shafts and, at the time, our guild had a very skilled "loom doctor" who fixed it all up so it works well for me.

What's the warp on that loom? Undegummed silk, very fine, that I will also use as weft to weave a 16-shaft twill pattern with added threads for tying the fabric up warp-wise in order to create a shibori resist. My thinking is that, if I de-gum the silk when the fabric is tied up in a tight shibori "package," I should get some really interesting horizontal pleats in the cloth. I will report back on this experiment.... Here's the pattern. (The red threads in both warp and weft represent potential positioning of threads for shibori ties.)

Lastly, what's on the Megado? Only half a warp, again using 20/2 Mora. The second warp, going on my second warp beam, will be a silk noil purchased from a now-defunct mill in England many years ago. I plan on weaving the piece all in beige to emphasize the texture, using differential-shrinkage techniques.

Trouble is, because the yarns are so fine, calling for a sett of 60 epi (or something close to that) -- predictably, I didn't have enough heddles. It took me two orders from Jane Stafford Textiles to get it right!

Did you know that, when you purchase Texsolv heddles, those four little blue twist-ties on every bunch of 50 heddles allow you to place the loops directly onto the shaft bars? They're tied completely in order, so once you've got them on the shaft bars, you simply undo the twist ties and you're good to go. (I must say, with great humility, that it took me a while to figure this out.)

My second challenge with this loom has to do with my second warp of silk noil. It's typically not used as warp because it breaks easily (silk noil being made of the waste products from producing all the other kinds of silk yarn). I sprayed it with spray starch to make it stiffer, which should help avoid breakage.

Above, my warp chain of silk noil after it's been sprayed with starch and dried. 

That's my story of three looms, just one of them ready to go. Hopefully you'll see photos and read updates in upcoming posts. (I'm keeping my fingers crossed....) Until then, may the weaving goddesses be with you -- and me!

Thanks for reading.

A Saga of Silk in the Gum: Chapter 1, Winding the Warp

Above photos: first, gossamer-weight silk on the cone; second, a detail of one strand of silk yarn; 

last, a microscopic look at the same yarn (about 100x).

Thanks to the valiant de-stashing efforts of a friend, I now own about 3 ounces of raw silk organzine, which has a grist of about 18,700 yards per pound. It's wonderful yarn because it's reeled silk -- a.k.a. thrown silk or raw silk -- meaning it came straight from the cocoon. A single strand of silk filament from one cocoon typically ranges from 2,000 to 5,000 feet long. And it's very strong.

Silk reeled straight from the cocoon is still "in the gum." When the silkworm spins a cocoon, the filament it creates is coated in sericin -- a gummy substance that makes each ever-so-fine strand adhere to others, in order to create a sturdy, solid cocoon. To make silk yarn, these filaments are gathered to create one strand of silk, which is plied with another strand to create silk yarn. It's a very delicate, laborious process.

Even after it's spun into yarn (such as the yarn on the cone shown at the beginning of this post), silk in the gum is not easy to handle, because of its tendency to twist back on itself. Also, the stiffness of the yarn causes challenges: If it's not under tension and it's on a cone, it unravels all over the place, fast. Elastic socks (cut into a tube) don't help much, in my view. Neither do "yarn bras" (otherwise recognized as the green plastic webs we put over wine bottles to keep them from breaking). I use them to store the yarn, but not when I'm winding a warp.

(A slight but necessary digression: Nearly all of the silk used by weavers today is degummed, so that it's silky and shiny and gorgeous. Further, nearly all of the silk used by weavers today is spun silk, which is made from fiber left over from the reeling process or from damaged or imperfect cocoons. Spun silk is not as strong as reeled silk -- because the filaments are much shorter -- and for that reason it's much fuzzier, so it often pills. I've sometimes resorted to a seam ripper to separate two warp yarns that were bound together by one of these pills, or "nits," as I call them.)

In contrast, despite how tricky it is to handle, reeled silk is a genuine treasure, creating fabric with a drape and hand that's hard to find with any other yarn. Plus, it takes dye beautifully.

Above: detail of a scarf I dyed and wove using degummed, reeled silk.

It's a 12-shaft Echo pattern I call "Pagoda." 

Reeled silk still in the gum is used to weave silk organza, a gauze-like fabric with a stiff hand and a matte finish. Above, a silk organza scarf shibori-dyed in black by Ana Lisa Hedstrom, which I was lucky enough to buy at the Conference of Northern California Weavers (CNCH) last year. 

Again, back to the story. I've got this fine silk yarn in the gum and I want to degum it after weaving, using a shibori-resist technique, so that portions of the woven fabric will be degummed (becoming soft and shiny and pliable, like silk Habotai) while the rest of the fabric will still be in the gum and stiff (like silk organza). The idea is to create contrasts in texture -- a dimensional fabric -- with lots of interesting pleats and bumps. 

Below is the pattern I plan to use. The red-colored ends in the drawdown show where I will add the shibori-resist yarns, yarns that I will pull tight and knot to create a sort of "package" of the fabric with tight accordion folds. When washed in soda ash and Orvus paste to remove the sericin (gum), the edges of the folds will be exposed to the solution while the interior of the folds will not. At least that's my theory. I'm going to weave up some small samples first, of course, because you never know. Best-laid plans and all...

You'll note that I've got red ends at the corners of the diamonds in both warp and weft. That's because I plan to sample it both ways: using warp tie-ups to create horizontal pleats and, for another sample, using weft tie-ups for vertical pleats. Once you draw the fabric in using these yarns (which have to be very strong or they'll break and ruin all that weaving), you will have a tight package of pleats ready for degumming. The pattern is #78120 from handweaving.net.

For the warp ends that I'll use as shibori ties, I plan on using this Nymo beading thread (shown below) because it Simply. Won't. Break. My fingers may hurt, but my shibori ties will be intact. Again, that's my plan.

But first I have to wind the warp. I called my friend, Deb Kaplan, a brilliant weaver from Boston, and asked her about winding the warp from cones -- knowing full well that it would be a challenge. She suggested I first wind the yarn onto spools, which I don't have so I substituted bobbins. She also suggested using a manual bobbin winder rather than an electric one, because a manual winder is slower, making it much easier to keep an even tension as I wind the bobbins.

You want the yarn to look like this as you wind it onto the bobbin.

Not like this. (Excuse the background. Weavers need stuff.)

To get just the right tension, you might want additionally to wind the yarn around a chair leg or anything rounded and handy. Here, I used part of a steel utility shelf.

Deb suggested I wind two ends at once in the warp cross, which I often do. Of course, winding the warp is the ultimate even-tension, straight-line-to-the-warping-reel kind of challenge. A creel would be helpful in this case, but alas, I don't have one, so a shoe box will have to do. (Final Sale, $31.73 at Macy's.)

Below, my shoebox creel with bobbins in place (with yarn coming forward from underneath the bobbin, hoping that gravity will also help tame it a bit). Ready to begin warping. 

Samples to come, probably a good couple of months from now, as I already have a warp on the loom....

 

Thanks for reading!

Bombyx Mori silkworms munching mulberry leaves, courtesy of Wikipedia

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Post script: My shoebox creel didn't work. The yarns unwound and got tangled all over the dowels. So I resorted to a simpler approach: I put my two bobbins in two plastic yogurt containers that I placed on the floor.

Believe it or not, the weight of the bobbins themselves created enough tension for me to successfully wind my warp. I did take care to divide the two ends of yarn with my fingers, to keep them from tangling.

It worked! Warp wound. More to come...